China - Tourism's Awakening Giant

There’s an apocryphal story about the British politician who went to China and ate his first official banquet, only to later discover that he’d not only enjoyed the sweet and sour pork, but also mistakenly eaten the floral display.

And so it was with a wry smile that I helped myself to food in Hefei’s Empark Grand Hotel in China’s Anhui Province, next to a sign that advised guests that certain parts of the buffet were for display purposes only and should not be consumed!

I was there at the invite of the regional government to witness the opening ceremony of the 14th Anhui International Culture and Tourism Festival, and was still reeling from a 22-hour journey that had involved a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong, where I had already ‘done the island’ in nigh on eight hours.
At that moment, with a 7+ hours time difference, I didn’t know whether it was time for breakfast, lunch or dinner, although I did know that the floral displays were in serious danger of being consumed!

The local paparazzi were out in force, there was a chaotic hubbub in the lobby and expectations were running high, as we prepared to get our heads down for the night ahead of the following day’s conference: then it would be onto a coach for a trip that I now appreciate, will remain with me until my final days. Wonderful craziness at its best!
My Fred Flintstone dickie bow had been a big hit the previous day but, with temperatures soaring to the mid 30’s, I was grateful for shorts, a t-shirt and the company of a medley band on our air-conditioned coach. It wasn’t long before Israeli tour operator, Gold Meir, had cajoled me into singing The Colors of My Life from the musical Barnum: the positive mood for our 241km journey to Xuancheng City had been set.

As we made our way cross country towards the China Xuan Paper Museum, not quite knowing what to expect, it didn’t take long to appreciate that we were in the People's Republic of China where Zeng Lansong’s national flag design peers back from every corner.

Most Europeans have heard of Shanghai, the capital Beijing and certainly Qin Shi Huang’s Terracotta Army, even if they haven’t visited Shaanxi Province, where the majority of it is still on display, however, few have ventured beyond the confines of these heavily promoted areas.

But, with the power of the tourist dollar now firmly in the sights of China’s ruling Party, and a realisation that huge economic potential has, for decades, been ignored by this largely ‘closed’ society, the tide is changing as China and its 1.41 billion inhabitants start to invite the world in, albeit with the gentle hand of caution.

With something resembling 9.56 million km² of land mass – just slightly larger than that of the USA – there is huge potential to show people what this fascinating land of contradictions has to offer, from spectacular vistas through to breathtaking architecture, wonderful wildlife and natural wonders.
Rapid gunfire Chinese, followed by a brief translation, announced that we’d arrived at the paper museum, an architecturally stunning 10,000 m2 edifice opened in 2015, and now providing a three-storey opportunity to witness traditional Chinese paper making techniques at close quarters.

A Taste of Tradition

Located in Langqiao Town, Jingxian County the entire site, or ‘Park’, comprises the museum, the ‘Sanzhangsan’ (aka the Super Xuan Paper Workshop) and the Xuan Paper Technique Experience Park: taken together they have achieved UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status because of the way the attraction is now preserving ancient Xuan papermaking techniques.

High quality English translations are sparse but, slowly, the country is recognising the need to appeal to a wider ‘external’ audience and, will over time, raise its game in this area. For now highly elaborate poetic Oriental language serves as ‘translations’ for Euro visitors.

The region is also famous for Jinting Mountain.

Located on the north bank of the Shuiyang River in Xuancheng City, Jinting was visited by the famous Chinese poet Li Bai several times as he became China’s answer to William Wordsworth whose love of the Lake District is well known.

Bai’s love of his Oriental homeland is equally well-documented in China: “All birds have flown away; a lonely cloud drifts idly by. We never grow tired of looking at each other – only the Jingting Mountain and I.”
“I’ve got Google translate on my phone,” announced one of my travelling companions.

I’d forgotten to download my Airalo e-sim in Hong Kong and, with so many Western phone apps blocked in China, had not been able to make any downloads, once on the mainland, or, indeed, use WhatApp, Internet Messenger or Facebook.

We were keen translate the occasional billboards we passed as the journey continued. It gave us a fascinating insight into day-to-day life in China’s one Party state where socialism dominates.

That evening the Shihua Shanshui Hotel in Taohuatan town gave us respite for the evening.

It was also a chance to enjoy some wonderful Chinese folk music and a buffet courtesy of the local Mayor.

Then it was bed and, the following morning, off to one of the major trip highlights:Grand Huangshan or the Yellow Mountain.

Located in the northern part of Huangshan City, the area, featuring the famous ‘Guest Welcoming Pine’, is a UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage site and, alongside the Yangtze River, the Great Wall and the Yellow River, is not only representative of China’s beautiful landscapes, but now widely regarded as one of the country’s ‘must see’ attractions.

There are also three major river systems in the province: the Yangtze, Huai and Xin’an Rivers, collectively creating a magnificent landscape that is rich with mountains and rivers.

We were fortunate enough to include a Portuguese Consul among our number.

“China has a magnificent education system where everyone is genuinely equal,” we were told. “Indeed, after school tutoring is actively discouraged so that no one is deemed to have an added advantage just because they have a bit more money.

“Service is excellent and you can get anything delivered to your door in minutes. You probably don’t ever need to leave your apartment,” our narrator emphasised.

“But, the Chinese love their packaging. Even individual strawberries get a mini tray each!”

They were valuable snippets of life: wonderful insights.

The ancient village of Honcun, a World Heritage site with its fascinating water system in the shape of an ox, beckoned. Each household is connected by waterways, with layered courtyards and a blend of lakes and mountains, creating picturesque scenes everywhere. It is known locally as the ‘Village in Chinese paintings.’

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However, it wasn’t long before my travelling companion’s earlier comments came back into my head: “The Cultural Revolution of the 1960’s saw many of China’s antiques, artworks, religious sites and historic buildings destroyed.

“But, there is a recognition these days that it was not one of the finest moments in their history. Now, leaders realise that the world – particularly tourists - want that past, the very thing the Revolution destroyed.”

Which goes some way to explaining why certain historic sites have been ‘re-built’ with a modern twist or, perhaps, utilised with a little less sophistication: vending machines in an ancient building dating back hundreds of years, or, indeed, the proliferation of Disneyesque retail outlets in ancient settings: sometimes a little out of place.

But it is all part of China’s new awareness and rediscovery of its ancient past.

There is a pride in what the country can now offer to foreign tourists and, make no mistake, the Chinese are rapidly gearing up to the needs of international visitors. Sometimes it is as if money is no object.

Quiyan Small Town is a case in point. A quaint resort area featuring B&Bs, cultural experiences such as the Museum of Moya Stone carvings, and a myriad of food outlets, it is located in Xiuning County, has been developed considerably and now has the ‘market positioning’ as the home of organic Chinese tea...

….whilst ancient Huizhou City is partially sold on its unique fish dance.

It had been a whistlestop, seven-day tour of a tiny part of one of the world’s great countries, but the high-speed train to Shanghai and my flight back to Blighty beckoned.

China is, in many ways, still an enigma, wrapped in a mystery and served as a question mark, however, one thing is certain, the Oriental tourism giant has awakened.

Watch this space, the Chinese are quick to learn and even quicker to imitate. Their eye is firmly on a slice of the international tourism pie!

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Allen W.Y. Leung: China & Far East Specialist. www.united-tvl.com. Tel 0121 666 6338
Tour Operators – China
Michelle Chen, Henan Emax Int. Travel Service Co. www.emaxtravel.com
Kelly Lin, Huangshan China Int. Travel Service Co. E:citskellylh@163.com
Panbi Liu, Elephant Travel, Beijing. E:412869250@qq.com
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