We’d heard French, German and smatterings of Italian throughout our three-day stay in Lausanne, but there was no mistaking the sign that greeted us in English as we descended the picturesque Escaliers du Marché from the Gothic cathedral above: “We serve beer colder than your ex-girlfriend!”

Which was rather handy considering that we had been enjoying a 72-hour heatwave in Switzerland’s fifth biggest city that, somehow, had left two of us mopping our brows and Mrs H urging me at the end of each day, to ‘change your t-shirt lest you cool off and catch a chill', a permanent concern, it would seem, of someone born in the tropics!

To some, Switzerland might, at first reckoning, seem unattainable. It has a reputation for being expensive, cold perhaps, difficult to get to (it isn’t!) and, a place where you can only visit if you have a five-figure bank account!

However, considering that various budget airlines now run regular summer flights to Geneva, with an onward train journey to Lausanne taking just 40-50 minutes and costing less than £30, it is safe to say that Switzerland is not only accessible to the majority, but also has sunshine as well as winter snow for which it is often better remembered!

Manchester to Geneva - Easyjet

Integrated &...

...stylish travel

More to the point, a little more effort will access you to one of the most endearing cities I have had the good fortune to visit.

With its origins dating back to the Romans, Lausanne, as picturesque capital of the canton of Vaud, began life on the banks of Lake Geneva around 58BC, and is a city built on three hills - the Cité, the Bourg, and the Saint-François - at the heart of which sits the beautiful arched Grand Pont bridge.

However, these days the city spreads well beyond the lakeside, although this magnificent stretch of water, 372m above sea level and, at 580m2, Western Europe’s largest, remains a hive of activity, especially at Port Ouchy where an impressive array of CGN ferries constantly move people to a variety of picturesque villages along the lakeside.

The port at Lausanne-Ouchy...

...sailings to various lakeside villages

Boating on Lake Geneva

We had dumped our bags at the Best Western’s Hotel Mirabeau on Avenue de la Gare, a short walk from the railway station, where we anticipated a budget hotel but were taken aback to discover one of the city’s more beautiful art deco properties. Our upgrade to a junior suite on the fourth floor was even more welcome!

Art deco splendour

Christine Seuret Dubuis, our guide for the afternoon, was a multi-lingual walking encyclopaedia!

“The city, as you may have discovered, goes up and down everywhere,” she said. “You’ve probably had a long trip so let’s catch either bus 1 or 2 outside the hotel, to St. Francis Square. It’s all uphill but the bus will save your legs.” She was right of course.

Two stops later we were standing alongside the Fountain of the Half Moon adjacent to the church. At first viewing you could be forgiven for thinking that litter had been scattered on the ground.

However, only when you look closer, do you realise that the so-called ‘rubbish’ is, in fact, randomly placed ‘gold’ cobblestones.

“The fountain is a public art installation officially called Les Naissances de la Pleine Lune (The Births of the Full Moon),” explained Christine, “and the golden half-moon shaped cobblestones celebrate those births that occurred in the city during the full moons of 1998, the year in which the fountain was erected.”

At that point we were on foot but, navigating Lausanne's layered landscape is an adventure in itself, made surprisingly simple by electric-powered buses and the M2 metro line.

The fully automated, rubber-tyred metro system, an engineering marvel for a city of its size, and once the smallest of its type in the world, acts as Lausanne’s vertical spine, effortlessly connecting the tranquil port of Ouchy with the bustling city centre and its northern suburbs.

However, for those who prefer to explore at a slower pace, the city's iconic bridges offer stunning vantage points over valleys and rooftops below.


Within a matter of minutes we had passed along Rue de Bourg, an emblem of luxury shopping in Lausanne, home to the historic Blondel chocolate shop, Louis Vitton and, for the more discerning, McDonalds!

“Even our electric repeater boxes are out of the ordinary,” quipped Christine pointing across. “Students from the Ecole Cantonale D’art De Lausanne, one of our main art schools, have taken it upon themselves to introduce a touch of style to the centre.” One proudly stared back, sporting new colourful attire and the word ‘Lausangeles’ sprawled across its front.

Before long, thighs aching, we were marvelling at the wonderful Cathedral of Notre Dame, a masterpiece of Gothic Art constructed between 1170 and 1275, and stared out across the city from the nearby viewing platform.

Each night, from 10pm, people gather around the Cathedral to hear the Nightwatch call the time on the hour until 2am, from a tower 75m above ground.

“C’est le guet, il a sonné dix, il a sonné dix...” ….’this is the night watch, the hour has struck’…. In so doing, he (or she) keeps alive a tradition that stretches back more than 600 years – to the Middle Ages, when predecessors played the all-important role of raising the alarm when fire broke out in the city.

Invariably a visit to the cathedral is either preceded or, in our case, followed by a descent of the Escaliers du Marché, a steep but rewarding covered wooden staircase dating back to the 13th century but, in its current format since the 1700’s.

My wife complained of aching legs so, at the foot of the stairs, we stopped at Restaurant Café de Grutli.

This historic eatery and pavement cafe has been dishing up tantalising cuisine, including its speciality, cheese fondues, since 1849.

Nearby, the Place de la Palud is the city’s historic focal point, a bustling square with a charm of its own. Here you'll find the majestic Renaissance Fountain and the ornate facade of the City Hall (Hôtel de Ville).

This elegant building holds a surprising piece of pop culture history. “It was within these walls, on April 24, 1992, that music legend David Bowie married his supermodel love, Iman, in a private civil ceremony” said our guide, Christine.

The square's animated clock, which tells stories of the canton's history on the hour, adds to the timeless atmosphere of the area.

Tucked away nearby, on the Cité hill, is the formidable Château Saint-Maire, a towering medieval castle that served as the residence for the bishops of Lausanne and later as a seat of government. Today, it stands as a symbol of the city's power and history.

Lausanne's Renaissance Fountain & City Hall in Place de Palud

Château Saint-Maire, aka 'Lausanne Castle' nr the Cathedral

Somehow, Lausanne effortlessly leaves you with a feeling that it oozes sophistication.

For art and design enthusiasts, a new cultural district has emerged next to the main train station: Platforme 10. This innovative urban space brings together three of the canton's most important museums—the Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts (MCBA), the Cantonal Museum of Design and Contemporary Applied Arts (mudac), and Photo Elysée—in one centralized location. It’s a dynamic hub for discovery, complete with restaurants, bookstores, and public spaces that foster creativity.

Platforme 10's

Art

Coffee!

And, just a short walk away, the Parc de Montbenon offers an oasis of green and culture. Here, you'll find the Palais de Justice, home to the district court. In front of this building stands a compelling marble statue of William Tell, the legendary Swiss folk hero said to have speared an apple balancing on his son’s head.

Nearby, the Brasserie de Montbenon occupies the rotunda of the 1908 Casino de Montbenon building. It is a stunning Belle Époque space that offers exceptional "bistronomic" cuisine with a focus on local Vaudois products, all enjoyed from a beautiful terrace with an alpine view.

However, the city boasts an equally compelling periphery.

A short bus ride from the city centre takes you to the Hermitage Foundation, an exquisite 19th-century manor house set within a serene park. This stunning venue hosts high-calibre temporary art exhibitions and offers a perfect retreat from the city's pace.

A leisurely stroll through the park's grounds leads to the Sauvabelin Tower, a striking, contemporary wooden watchtower that provides an unmissable 360-degree view of Lausanne, Lake Geneva, and the surrounding Alps.

Art for arts sake at the Hermitage Foundation

The architecturally stunning Sauvabelin Tower

But, if water and picturesque villages are your thing, then one of the CGN ferries at Port Ouchy will whisk you to the likes of Lutry, a charming gem known for its medieval old town and its position at the gateway to the UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyards.

Lutry's La Place De La Couronne

Tastebud tickling in Lutry!

From its ancient Roman past to its vibrant modern art scene, from its legendary heroes to its world-class chocolate, Lausanne is a city of many stories.

‹›

• Lakeside life in Lutry
• Premier brands on Rue de Bourg
• Exquisite shops
• A gold medal attraction - The Olympic Museum
• A boatside view of chocolate box Vevey-Marche

Intrinsically linked to the Olympic Games as the permanent home of the International Olympic Committee (IOC), it is home to the IOC headquarters, host to the Olympic Museum, and a place to be climbed, admired, and savoured.

It offers a rich tapestry of experiences that will linger long after you leave its shores.



FACT BOX
Lausanne Tourism: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/
Swizz Tourism: www.switzerland.com
Hotel - Hôtel Mirabeau, Avenue de la Gare 31, 1003 Lausanne +41 21 341 42 43: www.mirabeau.ch
Ferries - www.cgn.ch
Train
Switzerland by public transport: not only is it the best way to enjoy unparalleled panoramic views in a relaxed atmosphere, but also seamless connections are guaranteed – whether by train, bus, boat or mountain railway. Take the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland; buy your Swiss Travel Pass or point-to-point tickets at travelswitzerland.com

Social
Instagram: myswitzerland
Facebook: MySwitzerland / MySwitzerlandUK
X: MySwitzerland_e
YouTube: MySwitzerland