A global phenomenon, the Victoria Falls - the world’s largest sheet of falling water - span the South African countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe, (formerly Rhodesia).

Up to 500 million litres of water thunder down the falls into the mighty Zambezi river every minute in the rainy season. Mesmerising in every way, magical rainbows created by light and water droplets enhance the unique environment in which wildlife roam freely.

Sharon Cain, our Lifestyle and Leisure Editor, and Steve Hare, our series photographer, travelled independently to explore the falls as part of a wider South African adventure.

The experience proved more adrenalin-fuelled than anticipated when Sharon was stopped in her tracks by angry exchanges between two massive male baboons.

Cliff Edge Rainforest

Landing in Johannesburg from London, we made our flight to Livingstone - the nearest airport to access both sides of the falls - by the skin of our teeth amid a chaotic customs system.

Declining (not quite graciously) an outrageous $120 dollars the hotel charged for a short return ride to the Zambezi falls entrance, we struck a deal with our amiable airport taxi driver.

While psyching myself up to the fact that navigating our way around South Africa for three weeks would be fraught with challenges, little did I know the first of them was just around the corner.

Boiling Pot Trail: A Difficult Descent

The Zambia entrance of the falls - a UNESCO World Heritage Site wORLD whose formation was sparked by volcanic activity 150 million years ago - is in the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park.

The local Tonga people also name the falls Mosi-oa-Tunya - ‘The Smoke that Thunders’ - which captures the evocative mists and constant swirling water.

Never ones to do things by halves, we paid our combined $40 dollars entry fee and headed for the Boiling Pot trail, a strenuous, rocky, slippery (due to the spray) hike descending to the base of a raging whirlpool where the Zambezi river joins the gorge.

Striving to keep focused amid waves of jet lag, searing humidity and uneven terrain, I never anticipated the large numbers of vervet monkeys and Chacma baboons I would cross paths with.

Image 2390 Not to be messed with: Baboons are renowned for their aggressive behaviour

Just 15 minutes into the hike, I was rooted to the spot by a terrifying altercation between two male baboons (the males can weight up to 50 kilos). They dashed away but I heard them close by as their conflict ensued. Steve was further ahead and out of their reach.

When the noise abated, I apprehensively continued on the narrow and increasingly difficult trail where a fellow visitor, who was originally from the area, advised me to carry a rock as a deterrent.

By now the route was heaving with hordes of excited teenage schoolchildren nimbly negotiating the precarious rocks on the final stretch while I relied on fragile tree branches to clamber forward.

Spectacular Whirlpool And Iconic Bridge

On reaching the base, I was surrounded by towering basalt cliffs and the deafening din of a 150-metre wide natural whirlpool created by the river pushing through the gorge. Exhausting, exhilarating, and soaked to the skin, it was well worth the effort.

Above me towered the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge discovered by Scottish missionary and explorer, David Livingstone, in 1855 who named it in honour of Queen Victoria.

When completed fifty years later, the historic steel arch of almost 200 metres, was the world's the tallest structure of its kind with the widest arch span.

A long-serving vital trade and travel link between Zambia and Zimbabwe, heavy trucks and freight trains are now banned to protect its infrastructure.

The hike back was uneventful and I later discovered that baboons are increasingly causing significant problems in and around both sides of the falls. Entering local shops and houses to scavenge for food, they frequently ambush people and charge at anyone carrying food, putting tourists and residents at risk.

In a welcome contrast, back at our hotel we were greeted by the uplifting sight of an elephant contentedly enjoying a grass supper outside the perimeter.

The largest living land mammals, elephants are equipped with a ton of intelligence, compassion and self-awareness. Their emotional capacity is incredible, and they cry when mourning a family member.

Our hotel was in the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park - a predator-free refuge, where elephants are frequently spotted during the dry season (July to September)

Life Force: The Zambezi River

As sunset descended on the Zambezi, the tranquil setting, accompanied by a chilled glass of Chenin Blanc, was the perfect panacea.

Flowing over 2,500 kilometres from Zambia to the Indian Ocean, the river is a vital artery and life source for millions of people, supporting agriculture, tourism and fishery sectors across eight South African countries.

Kaleidoscope Of Rainbows: Zimbabwe Falls

While twenty five per cent of the falls viewpoints are accessed from Zambia, their magnificence is best appreciated from Zimbabwe - despite the eye-watering $58 dollar per person entrance.

Just a short distance from Victoria Falls town, a key tourist hub, there are sixteen different viewing points along the 1.7 kilometre rainforest trail compared to three viewpoints (17-19) in Zambia.

Hassled at every step of the way by hawkers, I was relieved when they gave up on us - only to be greeted by a prominent ‘dangerous animal’ warning sign on the road leading to the entrance.

The town and falls lie within the Victoria National Park where wild animals like buffalo, baboons and snakes roam freely on roads and hotel grounds.

On our one-night stopover, we were advised not to venture even a few hundred yards down the road for take-out pizza.

Spacious and relaxing, the Zimbabwe falls has a café where Steve sampled a burger and I took in the displays of batiks and authentic soapstone.

The unique arts and crafts symbolise the mystical world and spirituality of the Shona tradition – a rich cultural heritage comprising ceremonies, music and dance, ancestral worship and art and language.

Prominently situated at the trail entrance is a statue of David Livingstone who dedicated his life to spreading Christianity and combating slave trade and disease in Africa.

As privileged visitors, we have much to thank him for affording us this experience. Little did he know when seeing the falls for the first time that his discovery would be was pivotal in many ways which included spreading knowledge of African culture.

Hungry to learn more, the Livingstone museum gave us a fascinating insight into the pioneering missionary.

The Zimbabwe falls are nothing less than spectacular and I was enchanted by beautiful, deep coloured rainbows, created when sunshine passes though the spray.

It goes dark early in winter when the gates close at 6pm so we missed the night rainbows or ‘moonbows’ formed by the moonlight.

The national park brims with lush vegetation; its rich flora and fauna and habitats are perfect for birdlife with evocative names like the Trumpeter Hornbill, who we heard but did not see, and the Schalow’s Turaco.

Less frenetic and packed than in Zambia, the copious viewing points enabled us to absorb this majestic, indomitable force of nature which remains impervious to the passing of centuries and civilizations.

KEY FACTS

Sharon and Steve travelled from Heathrow to Johannesburg with British Airways
For information on flights from Johannesburg to Livingstone visit Skyscanner
For information on Victoria Falls visit this link
For accommodation at Victoria Falls Zambia and Zimbabwe, check out providers including Booking.com and Trivago