In many ways Miguel Cunat is one of Sri Lanka’s true visionaries and a man with broad enough shoulders to not only carry a backpack, but the burden of responsibility associated with doing something before you’ve even got permission!

You might say that this ‘adopted’ son of Sri Lanka – born in the Spanish capital of Madrid but now a resident of the Teardrop of India’s capital city, Colombo - is almost a ‘local’ in that he’s lived in the country for nigh on two decades, during which time he has achieved more than most, conceiving, mapping and implementing the 323km Pekoe Trail, now one of the world’s ‘must do’ walking challenges.

It sits alongside other iconic pathways including the likes of California’s 211-mile John Muir Trail, the USA’s ‘Pacific Crest’ and, even, the Lake District’s 214 Wainwrights but, considering that it did not even exist 10 years ago, makes Cunat’s achievement all the more remarkable.

Miguel, 51, who now refers to himself as the ‘Trail Steward’, studied Information Technology at London’s City University, returned home but then departed his beloved Spain on a permanent basis two decades ago, when his Dutch wife, Irstel’s work took her to Singapore. He followed.

“She was commuting to Sri Lanka on a regular basis,” he said.

“Sometimes I would travel with her but it soon became apparent that we had fallen in love with the country so my wife asked for a transfer and, before long, we were permanent residents of Sri Lanka.”

But, with his partner ensconced in her work, Miguel found himself wanting for something to do. It didn’t take long to discover his primary purpose.

“I have always enjoyed walking and I quickly appreciated that there were hundreds of thousands of miles of trails that formed a complex network of pathways, originally used as a way of transporting newly picked tea leaves to nearby production factories.

“By 2011 I had formulated my ideas, realising that there was an opportunity to use these trails as a way of enhancing the tourism sector: could I connect the various villages, via these trails and, in so doing, not only create something that might capture the imaginations of the world’s walking community, but also present Sri Lanka tourism with a real marketing opportunity?”

Within a few years the answer was a definitive yes!

“In the early days, as me and colleagues discussed ideas, we started to use ‘Aunt Perera’ as our guide. There is a joke that every Sri Lankan family has an Auntie Perera so she became our fictional character: if Aunt Perera could walk the trail, then anyone could. She became our benchmark and invisible guide as we sought to develop and flesh out the Pekoe Trail, linking miles and miles of pathways into a coherent route.”

But, at that point, it was still only Miguel’s Master Plan!

The tea plantation...

...Sri Lanka's lifeblood

“Yes, I had an idea,” he said, “and it was slowly coming to fruition, but had I gone to tourist chiefs too early in the process there was every chance that some bureaucrat with no vested interest in what I was trying to achieve, might have killed it.”

Instead, he developed his ideas, mapped the trail – named after the orange ‘pekoe’, one of the particles left in the tea production process - then took a quantum leap, telling much of the world’s media about his new ‘walking challenge’.

It rapidly captured everyone’s imagination but it was only when journalists started to write about what he was doing and people began arriving to walk his ‘new’ trail, that the tourism sector awoke to what was happening. “I didn’t know how Sri Lankan officials were going to react. I even wondered if they might arrest me!”

But they approached Cunat’s trail idea with an open mind, privately applauding what he had achieved.

“The Pekoe Trail has been around since 2016 but has expanded considerably since then, being officially launched in 2022,” Miguel told me. “Since then, between 50,000 and 100,000 people have walked its 323kms, taking on average 22 days to complete the entire route. It has even attracted $2.3m in development monies from both the European Union and US government.

“Walking and hiking is not part of the Sri Lankan psyche,” added Miguel, “so, in the early days, tourism officials didn’t fully understand what all the fuss was about.

“We were getting publicity across the world; people were arriving to ‘conquer’ the trail and we were receiving major international investment. It was crazy! These days the Pekoe Trail is deemed to have had a $20m-$50m positive impact on Sri Lanka’s economy; quite a Return on investment! In truth officials didn’t need to ‘understand’ every last detail: they simply had the good sense to run with it.”

Since those early days the Pekoe has blossomed and, these days, the meticulously curated long-distance walking trail winds its way through the enchanting Central Highlands of Sri Lanka—often regarded as one of Asia’s best-kept secrets – and is divided into 22 stages, taking walkers on a captivating journey through South Asia’s most breathtaking mountain landscapes, lush tea plantations, and diverse ecosystems.

Along the way they encounter vibrant local communities, each offering a glimpse into Sri Lanka’s rich traditions, warm hospitality, and unique cultural heritage, making the experience as meaningful as it is adventurous.

“There are something in the region of 300 accommodations across the trail, which is periodically marked by white arrows on an orange circular background, and, whilst there may have been marginal suspicions from villagers in the early days, they now embrace the Pekoe Trail which is widely celebrated as one of the world’s top hiking experiences, combining natural beauty, cultural immersion, and unparalleled adventure, redefining Sri Lanka as a must-visit destination for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.”

It has also won numerous awards including The National Geographic’s Best Experience Worldwide 2024, and Time Magazine’s ‘one of the best experiences for 2025’ category. Then of course, there is the international publicity, columns and columns of print and digital copy stretching from the New York Times to the Wall Street Journal as well as publications in the UK, Germany and beyond.

So, when Miguel offered me and others the chance to join him on Stage 22 of the trail, it was an opportunity not to be missed.

Beginning at 1934m at Kandapola and ending at the Pedro Tea Factory – the trail’s official finish point some six miles later – we spent as many hours taking in some of the breathtaking greenery offered by Sri Lanka’s Central Highlands, whilst walking in the foothills of Mount Pidurathalagala, the highest mountain in the country at 2550 metres.

“According to my Apple phone, we’ve walked 15,900 steps, climbed to 2100m and scaled seven storeys!” chirped one of our group. Everyone completed the pleasantly flat trail although there were plenty of opportunities to ‘exit’ had the mood taken us.

Tuk tuks whizzed by, people sporting umbrellas to shield themselves from the midday sun, meandered, and, whilst there were no mad dogs, the English walkers marched on!

It can be done as a modular walk in that you can do one or two stages at a time if you like. “It really is up to individual walkers,” said Miguel.

“Gradients are gradual and, because the trails were originally designed with horses and bullocks in mind, they are suitable for the entire family with lots of opportunities for beers, village purchases, stays with locals and, of course, lovely lunches.”

At that moment our walk was finished and we were enjoying some food.

“Can I check the spelling of your surname,” I asked Miguel innocently.

“Of course,” he said, articulating each individual letter: “C. U. N. A. T.”

There was a momentary pause as he got the measure of me. “Just remember, as my friends never fail to remind me, the ‘A’ is silent.”

His laughter, and mine, roared across the restaurant. But, make no mistake, Miguel Cunat may enjoy a good joke but no one is laughing at him. These days visionaries are in short supply and everyone is taking him very seriously.

More details: www.thepekoetrailsrilanka.com

www.srilanka.travel
www.bluelankatours.com