Island discoveries: Beautiful Bute Images by Steve Hare
The allure of Scotland, with its shimmering lochs, vast tracts of golden beaches, majestic castles and celebrated cities, makes it a dynamic destination for long and short breaks.
With 94 of the country’s 900 diverse islands inhabited, Scotland is brimming with a tapestry of civilizations and discoveries dating back to the First Century AD with the arrival of the Romans.
Our motorhome addicts - Lifestyle & Leisure Editor, Sharon Cain, Photographer, Steve Hare and golden retriever, Bracken, share insights from their own voyages of discovery across land and sea.
World’s Most Beautiful Country
Heart melting scenery: Loch Affric
Scotland has fuelled the passions of famous poets, been the source of inspiration for the Harry Potter novels and hailed as the most beautiful country in the world by Rough Guide readers.
Our adventures to find out what makes it unique has seen us travel almost 4,000 land miles and take 26 boat trips to 15 islands – our ultimate destination being the furthermost northerly point in the Shetlands where there is more evidence of the Vikings’ rich heritage than anywhere else in the UK.
Along the way we have ascended Ben Nevis - a tough climb which was shrouded in a fog of mist - walked dozens of miles around lochs and coasts and conducted our own survey of the best chowder soups.
Morning Mackerel and Dolphin Delights
Sunset over Kilchatten Bay, Bute
Our shorter trips to the islands have taken us to the Isle of Bute. Less than an hour from Glasgow by rail or car, a 35 minute ferry ride from Wemyss Bay terminal and we were in the island’s capital and working port, Rothsay.
As illustrated in the video above, our park up was nothing short of sensational. The free park ups work on a first come, first served basis and with room for just two campervans or motorhomes, we felt very smug having bagged the second available spot – so much so we were reluctant to move in case it got snapped up!
Monastic ruins of St Blane’s Church
We caught a quick glimpse of dolphins in the evening, enjoyed the five mile Kilchatten Bay Circular hike and its historic ruins and enjoyed a dinner of deliciously fresh seafood at the Kingarth Hotel. Our breakfast of piping mackerel oozing with butter came courtesy of our motorhome neighbour. Pleased as punch, he had been up with the lark and had hooked a plentiful catch.
Skye: A Backdrop of Bravery and Romance
Golden Eagle Soaring over the Old Man of Storr
Scotland’s treasures include the heart-stopping Hebridean Islands, known as the ‘long island’ because they stretch for 100 miles.
The captivating Isle of Skye, the largest island in the Inner Hebrides, is renowned for its castles, rugged landscape - and the heroic feats of feisty Jacobite heroine, Flora McDonald.
After the English defeated the Jacobites in the brief but bloody Battle of Culloden in 1746, Flora, disguised as a maid, helped a beleaguered Bonnie Prince Charlie escape the clutches of English soldiers by ferrying him on a boat from Skye to France.
Her fortitude inspired the immortal Skye Boat Song - whose lyrics evoke a gamut of emotions spanning hope, love, loyalty and the disillusionment of war - which was swirling in my mind like the mists of time during our ferry ride from the mainland.
Clan legends and treasures: Dunvegan Castle
Steeped in history and clan legends, Skye’s famous landmarks include the magnificent medieval Dunvegan Castle, Scotland’s oldest continuously lived in castle and the home of chiefs of Clan MacLeod for over eight centuries.
The castle is a living museum whose collection includes Prince Charlie’s waistcoat and a lock of his hair. Nestled in lush forestry, its fairy tale appeal is further enhanced by a coastal backdrop.
Striking rock formation: Old Man of Storr
Skye heaves with tourists in the summer so we escaped the masses by hiking 2,359 feet to the Trotternish Ridge. On the way we passed the Old Man of Storr, a pinnacle of rock created by a massive landslide almost three thousand years ago.
It must have been the hottest day of the year as we doused ourselves and Bracken, our Goldie, in the Smidge (I swear by it) anti-midge spray. The ascent was steep and slippery and well worth the spectacular scenery, but the midges were relentless.
Another walker asked me to name my price for my midge hair net which had cost just a few pounds. I would not have swapped it for a few thousand pounds and gracefully declined.
Gorgeous: Loch Greshornish
We stayed for three nights at the Isle of Skye campsite, part of the nationwide Camping & Caravanning Club where we are members. The site's stunning location on the shore of Loch Greshornish which teems with Pollock, made for a special stopover and Bracken loved every second of his loch swims.
Caribbean Dreams: Inner Hebrides
Unspoilt and tranquil: the Island’s beaches
The golden white sands, turquoise water and clarity of light in the Inner Hebrides, which has 35 inhabited islands and 44 uninhabited islands, are more akin to the Caribbean. With more cows and sheep than its population of 19,000, the islands are home to an abundance of wildlife.
We were transported to paradise on arriving at North Uist with its abundance of sandy beaches and freshwater lochs. The island has Europe's largest breeding colony for seals, with 9,000 pups born each year.
Perfect for birdwatchers, it is home to species including Oystercatchers, Eurasian Curlews, Golden Plovers and, most importantly, Corn Crakes which are virtually extinct in Britain.
Preserving the Essence of the Hebrides: Uist Wool
Integral to the island's deep-rooted heritage, wool is also instrumental to its economy. We visited Uist Wool, a spinning mill and wool centre which is an inspiring community outreach preserving cultural traditions.
We saw the fascinating process of how specialised machinery enables the wool to keep the key characteristics of the fleece, creating bespoke yarns in natural colours.
The Magic of Mull
Visual heritage: Tobermory’s houses
Scotland is a country of enchantment and Tobermory’s brightly coloured houses were a visual feast as we sailed into Mull, a sister inner Hebridean island with its unique blend of magic.
The Tobermory campsite was just a 30 minute walk from the bustling town and harbour. It was perfect for exploring on foot and a welcome respite from navigating the narrow streets of Scottish islands. Cafes and restaurants provided a treat from motorhome cooking, offering more scrumptious clam chowders. The succulent lobster at The Galleon Bistro was to die for.
With a population of less than 3,000 and heart stopping scenery around every corner, Mull is also the gateway for the offshore islands of Iona and Staffa where we headed across the Sound of Iona sea.
Fact or Folklore: Iona’s Insights
Legendary Worldwide: Iona’s Medieval Abbey
At almost three miles long by one mile wide, Iona is only a ten minute ferry ride from Mull and carries foot passengers only.
Iona is most famous and celebrated for St. Columba, an Irish Abbot and missionary who landed with his followers in AD 563 to spread the gospel. His legacy is steeped in the restored medieval abbey, one of the world’s oldest religious centres, which dominates the coastline's distinctive white shell-sand beaches.
If you believe the folklore, St. Columba is said to have banished all women and cows from the island when building the abbey, forcing the workmen to leave their wives and daughters on the nearby Eilean nam Ban, known as Woman’s Island.
Where there is a cow there is a woman, and where there is a woman there is mischief
St. Columba
A famed missionary centre, Iona became renowned as a sacred isle where former Kings of Scotland, Ireland and Norway were buried. A vehicle free haven, no cars or motorbikes are allowed on the island.
Inspiring Overtures
Mendelssohn Inspiration for Hebrides Overture: Fingal's Cave
Iona is most celebrated for its internationally renowned Fingal’s Cave, which inspired 19th century composer Mendelssohn to create the Hebrides Overture in 1830. The sound of the waves echoing off the cave walls is akin to the cave’s unique seascape composition.
Our short boat trip also stopped at Staffa - a barren, uninhabited volcanic island created when the Atlantic Ocean was formed sixty million years ago.
I gasped in awe at the extraordinary towering basalt columns - interlocking geometric pillars formed by the lava flows - which are populated with black guillemots, fulmars and puffins.
Eagle eyed: Sea Eagle above Staffa
As we walked around, a sea eagle, one of the UK’s largest birds of prey with enormous wingspans, startled us by swooping preciously low to take a closer look at Bracken. My rocketing adrenaline levels subsided when it left us in peace.
Throughout our trips, the powerful force of Scotland and her abundant landscapes held me in their thrall, often reducing me to tears. At Iona I came upon a kindred spirit who confided that she too had felt a profound emotional impact from the country's raw beauty and diversity.
Look out for more tips and photography from our explorations in future articles. For an additional flavour of the diverse landscapes we encountered, see the video below.
Scotland’s compelling aura makes me impatient to return after mother nature sheds her dank winter skin and bursts into an explosion of life and colour in Spring, the season of renewal.