Arriving in the little hamlet of Nun Monkton, where cows grazed on the green, certainly marked a wonderful start to my lunchtime visit to The Alice, which included a sunny afternoon and a catch-up with a friend to celebrate our mutual birthdays. I was very much looking forward to this occasion and was intrigued at what The Alice had to offer. A charming façade with a plethora of offerings, from private dining to overnights and even longer stays, the Alice hails as a one-stop shop for a cosy country getaway with local walks and an excellent drink and wine selection to quench your thirst after stomping your boots around the area of Lund; it seemed like it would be a welcome retreat.

Upon arrival the greeting was immediate and warm; I had arrived early to check out the bar area, which was cosy, and was greeted by friendly faces at the bar and an extensive selection of beverages on offer. It would be rude not to start with a glass of something sparkling and not offer champagne. I opted for a glass of the Chalkland classic cuvée from the Simpsons Estate in Kent, a pleasurable tipple which did the job. A large blackboard displayed a variety of bar snack options. Arriving hungry, I decided to indulge in a chorizo mini dog.

On arrival, I was a little disappointed, as it looked a little rough around the edges. The chorizo didn’t taste particularly good and seemed quite oily, and the bread was a bit old, not the soft, sumptuous bit of brioche I had hoped for. It was squirted rather than drizzled with a very white aioli and ketchup, which again was a bit lacklustre. Anyway, not to be put off, I enjoyed the setting and the staff engagement and had time to look through their extensive wine list, which really did have something to offer for everyone.

We were taken to our table in the dining room, which was dressed in country chic, chunky timber tables and plaid seating. While the atmosphere was pleasant, it felt somewhat dated for my tastes and lacked a touch of finesse, although it did achieve the cosy pub aesthetic. This setting would be ideal for a more mature clientele, in my opinion.

We were offered the menus immediately and offered drinks; we explained that we may need a bit of time for a quick catch-up and to peruse the list before making a decision.

Another member of the team then approached us and we explained that we had already been asked for our drink orders, highlighting a lack of communication and ownership of tables, which can be quite frustrating when dining. I prefer a dedicated member of the team who has a chance to build rapport and guide us through the journey.

For the wine we went for Bolgheri 'Stupore', Campo alle Comete from Tuscany, and only realised after the fact and when I left it’s not the wine I actually received. During our deep conversation, I failed to check the wine we received, which was my fault; however, what we got instead was certainly not to be grumbled at. It was a delightful wine with superb intensity and complexity, a similar blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah, and an excellent mistake on all fronts— a flagship wine from Marchesi Antinori, one of Tuscany’s most important wineries. And after checking the bill, we were charged more than the wine we had chosen.

We had both decided on our dishes, and I started with their Dos Passos, which were large king prawns baked in spiced garlic and lemon butter, followed by their Creedy carver duck, and my friend went for the dry-aged fillet steak. We ordered a side of rocket and parmesan salad and a side of charred tender-stem broccoli with pomegranate, feta, and almonds.

On arrival my starter looked like it would be delicious; the prawns were of healthy disposition, and it came with bread to be dipped into the sauce. I was excited. Unfortunately, the dish fell very much under par; the prawns were cooked well, but the sauces just lacked flavour and seasoning. It just didn’t taste of much garlic and lacked any taste of lemon. The bread was delicious, but alas, its job of dipping into a sumptuous sauce was redundant.

The wine was going down well.

We requested a longer break between the starter and the main course because it seemed like the food would arrive too quickly; since we were enjoying a leisurely lunch, we didn’t want to feel rushed.

About 10 minutes later, the food arrived, which was quite annoying. 

My duck was fanned onto the plate. I had asked for fries instead of triple-cooked chips. The whole dish was again completely underseasoned and lacked any depth and finesse. I was craving duck, and I hoped it would be more flavourful with the maple glaze, but it wasn’t. The glaze arrived on the side with a pea fricassee and chips; it was all just very underwhelming, and the chips tasted like they were of the frozen bagged variety. More could be done with this dish, I’m sure; a delicious puree or mash, or even a classic redcurrant glaze or orange addition, and not chips as the side. I guess I ordered it, so my bad this time.

Steak

Duck

My friend had ordered a medium-rare fillet steak, which arrived and was cooked medium. We mentioned the issue, but we didn’t want the hassle of getting it corrected; it was acceptable, and our waitress apologised during her follow-up check. It was one of those meals that was more about the company, and at this point we were fine with the food being a backdrop to our catch-up. We unanimously agreed that the broccoli side was the highlight of the meal, bursting with flavour.

Upon clearing our plates, we were presented with a cute little birthday cupcake, which was delicious, and had decided to throw caution to the wind and order sticky toffee pudding, which was devoured before evidence of its existence could be taken. It was an excellent pud, and I would have been upset if they had messed this up too, but it was a saving grace as I was still a bit peckish even after a 2-course dinner, which I rarely ever go for, as I did leave a lot of it, to be fair.

Tender Stem Brocolli

We asked for the bill, which promptly arrived, and we were pleasantly surprised that the steak had been discounted without us asking – a nice touch and a good bit of service.

On the whole, the experience we had was lovely—not somewhere I would return for food, but definitely for a wine or cocktail catch-up. The staff were lovely, but the food just lacked execution; it felt like the head chef maybe had a day off. I imagine if I were staying over for a night and dined, I would be ok with the food on offer in the area. It’s probably better than some but not as good as others, especially for the price point.

Spending for lunch with a decent bottle came to £177, which certainly isn’t cheap.

The Alice Hawthorn Inn Restaurant & Rooms
The Green, Nun Monkton
York Y026 8EW

Tues 6pm-8.15pm Drinks from 3pm
Wed-Sat – Drinks all day
Lunch 12-2.30
Dinner 6pm-8.30pm
Sun 12-3.30pm
Drinks until 7pm

www.thealicehawthorn.com>