More often than not the restaurant trade tends to be a weekend kind of experience, but sometimes what you need is a restaurant that hits all the spots even on a Monday, and The Aviary in Hessle is a shining example of good food all the time. Nestled in Hessle, the restaurant hails itself as being renowned for its fresh, vibrant menu and show-stopping cocktails, all set against a backdrop of lush floral décor.

On my first visit, when my husband mentioned we should go, I was a bit put off by the décor and its neon palette of colours online and didn’t think it would be up my cup of tea, but having allowed him to make the choice for once, I couldn’t back out.

I had frequented the restaurant a couple of times last year when it went under a different guise, having rebranded with new owners but, most importantly, the same chef. We jumped at the chance to visit again on a Thursday evening. This is the only restaurant; when I heard it was up for sale, I asked the previous owner for the chef’s contact details, as we felt we had discovered a true gem and wanted to know where he would be on the pans next and were delighted he was still there.

With its bright façade and cheery interior, initially you might think it’s more a young 20-something hotspot, which I’m sure it is at times, but it also ticks all the boxes, whatever age you may be.

Chef Ben Trolle is a superstar; just watching him work his magic in the stunning open semi-circular kitchen is a joy to watch – a kitchen I’m sure any chef would love to be at the helm of, or at least one who knows and is confident of their skill set, and Ben certainly does.

He keeps an extremely tidy ship, which, when you are on show for all to see, is a necessity. Mixing, whisking, sautéing and tasting his way round his kingdom, you would think this guy must be sought after. Yet Ben, who is self-taught and learnt his craft in care homes, could easily be looked over. He is a perfect example of how you should never judge a chef by their CV; his skills are simply sublime, and he really is a true talent. Knowing how to knock out a service of freshly prepped 160 meals at a time and learning how to make ingredients taste delicious on a budget is artistry. Fancy high-end ingredients are one thing, but making accessible cheaper cuts of food sparkle is where the art lies and where your foundation is built.

Entering on a quiet Thursday evening, I was surprised to see no one there; with large beautiful houses and a neat little town, you’d think it would be packed, but again, I was happy to have the restaurant to myself. The demographic may be a 50-plus crowd or families who don’t get the chance to have date nights or save their celebrations for the weekend. I’m not sure; it’s always hard for places like this to have a consistent trade, and cities like Hull, which are primarily sports cities, definitely have a pattern of custom, the example being the weekend before being the busiest weekend with Hull KR coming out on top of the rugby. If you popped it on Street Lane in Leeds, it would be packed every night.

The main menu is comprehensive, with something for everyone. Chef Ben makes just about everything from scratch, from marinades to sauces to pastry, and I was keen to experience his food again.

We started with Korean BBQ Chicken plated with prawn crackers and Gamba’s served with homemade bread; both dishes hit the spot. The chicken was succulent and rich, smothered with the deep marinade, paired perfectly with the light prawn crackers and the prawns, which came in a heavenly liquid pond, which was garlic and red pepper and emulsified to perfection, which I’d have been happy to mop up for days, plus a bonus of not having to de-shell; we could get stuck right in.

The menu is just classic good food, and when done right, it is exactly what you need: simple yet delicious but with finesse and expertise.

Beef and French onion pie

For mains we opted for one of the pies of the day to share, which was beef and French onion, framed by a thin gravy with colcannon mash. I can honestly say it was probably the best pie I’ve ever had. Presented more like an individual pasty, egg-washed and golden, filled to the edge with rich beef and topped with sweet onions, it was pure joy. With a pie like this, a rich dark gravy wouldn’t work, and we were delighted with the offering and its viscosity.

The food was even made better with the playlist of 80s and 90s bangers, which had my foot tapping all the way through. Who doesn’t like a bit of Whitney and Rem alongside eating delicious food? I’m all about a great playlist in a bar or restaurant, as I think it’s sometimes a forgotten enhancement of any meal or bar experience.

I was absolutely stuffed at this point, even though we shared a main course. I could not go without choosing a dessert to enjoy at home and went for the classic Bakewell tart to enjoy with a cup of coffee, probably the next day, and I was keen to test Ben’s pastry skills, which, to be quite honest, at this point I was pretty confident of, and boy, it was good. Beautiful thin shortcrust encasing a moist, not too heavy and dense frangipane with the perfect ratio of icing was divine.

We opted to wash our food down with something sparkling and would have opted for champagne if it had been done by the glass but was happy with the quality of the prosecco on offer.

Alongside the small wine list, the aviary is all about the cocktails and mocktails, offering an array to suit any mood.

It’s fun, consistently delicious and fulfilling and just really well executed. If I was opening a restaurant, this is the chef I’d want working his magic.

A credit to the city, and everyone should make the effort and give it a go.

The Aviary Restaurant and Bar
Av spend £35-50 per head with drinks.

2 Ferriby Road
Hessle
HU13 OPG

Open all week
Breakfast 9-11.30
Main Menu and Lunch 11.30-9pm

www.the-aviary.co.uk