Nestled in beautiful South Dalton Sits an old 17th-century coaching inn, housed in a beautiful setting; it's precisely the kind of place you want to turn up for lunch at.

The Pipe and Glass is an institution of comfort gastronomy, having earned Michelin star status and holding its star since 2010 and owned by James and Kate McKenzie since 2006. The inn is situated on the edge of the Dalton Park estate, which does indicate a historical connection to the estate’s activities and workers over the centuries. Now the inn is a picturesque restaurant adorned with an array of flowers and parasols; it certainly looks the part from the outset.

I’ve been frequenting The Pipe and Glass for a number of years and have always been drawn in by the comfort and consistency; the garden has been developed and gives a peaceful abundance of joy when looking out onto the neighbouring fields, where the cows frolic and the herbs, courtesy of the restaurant garden, grow.

The last time I visited, which was for a Sunday lunch, I didn’t feel particularly impressed, so I thought it best to return and confirm the quality of the food.

As usual, they greeted us warmly upon our arrival. Despite not having reserved a table for four, we were delighted to discover that the restaurant had room for us. They do take walk-ins, especially for the cosy bar area located in front of the restaurant.

We were allowed time to enjoy a glass of champagne in the bar and then the rear garden, and the sun popped its hat on for the occasion.The restaurant boasts a fabulous vista and a sun trap, making it ideal for spending a few hours soaking up the countryside delights and enjoying an excellent selection of drinks.

The restaurant also offers rooms for a more indulgent experience, which I am yet to experience but certainly plan for some time in the future.

The food order attempted to be taken quite quickly, but we were not quite ready and were given adequate time to make our minds up before being led to what I thought was the best table in the house, considering we had not booked, so I was extremely pleased with the setting once again.

I began my experience with a couple of classic oysters, purely out of curiosity. They were the perfect accompaniments to the house champagne and did not disappoint; served in a beautiful dish, they looked and tasted the part perfectly.

My partner and I decided to share a classic chicken liver pate served with pear and pink peppercorn ketchup, parkin crumb, crispy chicken skin and sourdough. I do love a pate and am always intrigued to see different interpretations of this staple dish on a menu. On arrival, the quenelle was a stomach-grumbling sight, surrounded by delicious drops of ketchup and crowned by a shard of chicken skin; it was a delight.
More parfait than pate, however, it was balanced in every way. The parfait was light and fluffy, with a hint of curry sauce that I thoroughly enjoyed, and the textures of the crumb and chicken skin were delightful. The dish was served with a perfect ratio of bread, making it enjoyable and leaving a spoonful of parfait to scoop up at the end.

The menu features classic offerings presented in the Pipe's refined style, providing options for everyone without overwhelming them; daily specials add an extra touch for those who have already enjoyed the classics, making it a special choice for me.

Our fellow dining team opted for the proper prawn cocktail, which arrived in abundance, being offered as both a starter size and main course option; safe to say, it did not disappoint. The presentation of food is top drawer and backed up with balanced flavours, which soothe the soul; it’s like falling into your favourite chair after a long day’s work.

For the main course, I was drawn to the fillet of halibut accompanied by cauliflower purée Romanesque, braised girolle mushrooms, warm shrimp in a butter vinaigrette, and samphire tempura, along with a pot of Lincolnshire new potatoes dressed with garden mint persillade. If a new potato rolls on your plate at first cut, it’s a good new potato that has been cooked to utter perfection as your knife glides through and the potato doesn’t lose integrity and the skin stays intact. Exceptional kitchen skills and careful treatment of every ingredient distinguish a good restaurant from a great one.

The portions here are not shy, and I was taken aback by the hunk of halibut I was served. Again, I loved the textural components of the dish, sat on the creamy puree with added warmth from the girolles and topped off with the tempura samphire. I was in comfort food heaven.Comfort with refined excellence and wonderful quality produces what’s not to like.

My partner finally settled on the 30-day aged ribeye steak, salt beef Niçoise, boiled quail's egg, chunky chips, and crispy peppercorn sauce. Arriving glistening in the sunlight, it was a sight for sore eyes, simple and stunning. The salad, served in a glass, was a delightful addition. The addition of salt beef created a unique contrast with the steak, yet the saltiness was perfectly balanced, and the vibrant colours were a delightful sight. Our only criticism was that the steak could have been rested for longer, as it did begin to seep its juice, but nonetheless it was an excellent bit of cow, and the sauce was a far cry from Schwartz.

The wine list is comprehensive and well thought out, offering options for different courses and styles. It's extremely easy to navigate and offers plentiful options for all on every budget.

I probably should have chosen a mineral, citrus-backed chardonnay, but as always, I was drawn to the reds and opted for a by-the-glass Cabernet Franc, which was delicious.I do love a pairing, as it’s what I work on for a living, but I also know with quality wine and great food there are no rules, and whatever your tastes are, they work together.

The service was warm and relaxed; it did dip towards the end of the experience and didn’t offer too much insight and conversation but also didn’t really fail. It could do with a touch more personality from its servers and speed in returning once menus are placed down, as it wasn’t entirely consistent, but the food and setting made up for it and didn’t deter from the experience.

As it was as a birthday celebration, I was definitely going to have a dessert because with comfort food this good, you just know the desserts are going to be executed to perfection.

I wasn’t wrong, and the cinder toffee ice cream topped with dark chocolate honeycomb bites and served with a glass of Muscat was dreamy and was certainly a step up from my Crunchie addiction. I am still thinking about it now. My mother-in-law chose the raspberry délice served on pistachio sponge, aerated white chocolate and raspberry sorbet, which was again nothing short of outstanding.

The dish was a delightful combination of light, colourful raspberry heaven, perfectly sized, and almost too beautiful to eat.

The lunch was rounded off by an excellent coffee and petit four selection, which they have always done, and it has never disappointed.

This lunch will remain etched in my memory; it exceeded all expectations.

They offer dedicated lunch, bar snacks, and evening menus; daily specials with menus for vegetarians and vegans; and even a little people’s menu, so it’s a perfect place to treat the family to a special gathering or just to pop in for a refined cosy bite. I wish I lived closer.

If you have never been, you should. It has class, and I’m glad I returned, as it exceeded my expectations, and was a repeat visit that doesn’t happen very often. Delightful.

The cost per person was £75-80, including drinks.

Pipe and Glass
West End
South Dalton
Beverley
Easy Yorkshire
HU17 7PN

www.pipeandglass.co.uk

Tues-Sat 12-2 Lunch
5.30pm dinner service