Group Editor Andrew Palmer returns to his beloved Portuguese coastal retreat, where fishing village charm meets cosmopolitan sophistication—and discovers why some places improve with every visit

As the train pulls away from Lisbon's Cais do Sodré station, I settle into what has become a ritual journey westward along Portugal's Atlantic coast. The 20-minute ride traces the shoreline like a slow reveal, offering glimpses of golden beaches and whitewashed villas that hint at what awaits. It's a journey I've made more times than I care to count, yet each return to Cascais feels like rediscovering a well-kept secret.

This boutique resort, just 45 minutes from central Lisbon, has mastered an enviable balancing act. While many Portuguese coastal towns have succumbed to either mass tourism or fossilised charms, Cascais has quietly evolved into something altogether more sophisticated, blending traditional fishing village authenticity with cosmopolitan flair.

The town's calendar alone warrants checking before booking. During the summer and early autumn, a series of food fairs, music festivals, and cycling events take place, culminating in spectacular events such as last year's Lumina Festival of Light, a stunning display of digital artistry that transformed the town into an illuminated wonderland. Though I confess to mourning the loss of those colour-changing tubular lights that once glowed on the pavement between the marina and museum— casualties of progress that seemed to capture the town's playful spirit.

Arriving by train rather than private transfer offers immediate immersion into local life. After one Underground change (tap-and-go accepted), you reach Cais do Sodré, where a ticket to Cascais costs a mere 87p. The scenic coastal route provides reconnaissance of potential day-trip destinations before the train glides into Estoril, where the golden beaches, harbour, and marina come into view, crowned by a picturesque lighthouse standing sentinel over the bay.

Step off at Cascais station, and the holiday atmosphere is immediate. The main thoroughfare, lined with shops and restaurants, leads to a small beach fronting the Hotel Baia, where late afternoon sun illuminates impromptu beach volleyball matches. I invariably base myself at the Hotel Villa Gale, positioned behind the park and adjacent to the castle, its balconies commanding sweeping Atlantic views. The distinctive blue-and-white Santa Marta Lighthouse – still working – stands to the south on the River Tagus estuary, guiding vessels into both the bay and the new marina. The hotel offers comprehensive breakfasts and sits at an ideal distance for evening strolls into town, though its restaurant makes a strong case for staying put.

The marina perfectly encapsulates how Cascais has transformed itself: stylish, sophisticated, and slick. At the height of summer, palpable energy draws you into the romance of sea and sail, with expensive yachts bobbing at anchor while their owners frequent the diverse bar offerings. The Skipper Bar serves an excellent Gin Mare garnished with fresh rosemary and cherry tomatoes, whereas afterwards you'll find substantial steak sandwiches with homemade chips or, at Pizza Gordini, properly thin-based pizzas.

But the marina's crown jewel is Valerio, where impeccable service matches outstanding cuisine. The filleted sea bass with potatoes, clams, and squid exemplifies Portuguese seafood cooking at its finest, whereas the scallop pancake offers something more adventurous. The wine list impresses and they observe the civilised practice of warming glasses for post-prandial brandy.

Since my first visits, the marina has developed exponentially, drawing innovative restaurateurs who've created a cosmopolitan dining scene where cuisines fuse and boundaries blur. Sundays see the resort at its liveliest, with families descending en masse for beachside lunches and afternoon diversions.

The walk from the marina to town follows the working harbour, with fishing boats clustered where the catch still comes in daily. At Flamingo, those sardines might be featured on the menu alongside their delightful Fish Portuguese Style with peppers, the pervasive smell of the sea, and the day's haul hanging in the air. My first-night ritual invariably means heading to Jardim Dos Frangos for piri-piri chicken, chips, and a glass of Mateus Rosé – a combination that simply works. Be warned: it's cash only, an increasingly rare requirement.

Some rituals have necessarily evolved. Sagres fish restaurant and the fine Bijou, once fixtures in my Cascais routine, have departed, but others have filled the void. Paul's, a French patisserie, now offers excellent food and service to those mourning the old guard.

Begin at the market square with its distinctive black-and-white tiling, then stroll up the main street, catching aromatic hints of Indian, Thai, Italian, and Portuguese cooking as you pass towards the Hotel Albatroz. From here, choose either the beach or the coastal path towards Estoril, setting off mid-morning for a coffee or cold beer whilst watching waves break, swimmers brave the Atlantic, paddleboarders wobble past, and cruise ships track the horizon towards or away from Lisbon.



The Escothila Bar makes an ideal stopping point, guaranteed to provide a warm welcome and excellent light fare. Their Portuguese grilled prawns, swimming in garlic and tomatoes with bread or chips, achieve perfection. When weather turns, this vantage point offers ringside seats to the Atlantic's full theatrical power, with waves crashing against the shore with primaeval force.

The seaward path towards Estoril features magnificent outdoor exhibitions along the sea wall, always worth pausing to read. In the opposite direction, towering clifftops offer alternative perspectives.

One of the town's most photogenic spots—when the sun and angles align— is the little bridge spanning the inlet near the castle and marina entrance. Occasionally, locals defy prohibitions by leaping from the bridge during high tide, a practice that carries genuine danger.

This area houses the Farol Museum of Santa Maria, the Village Museum, and the Casa das Histórias Paula Rego, the modern art museum, providing cultural sustenance for those seeking respite from sun and sea.

Evenings in Cascais favour gentle pleasures over pulsating nightlife. A handful of bars serve those seeking livelier entertainment, but the town's true evening rhythm involves couples taking a passeio—that Portuguese institution of the evening stroll—tracing the beach contours from marina to harbour to town, perching on walls to watch sunsets, observing beach activity, mingling with locals, or simply letting the world drift by. Should you fancy coffee, request an "abatanado" with milk on the side; ask for an Americano and you'll receive something altogether different from expectations.

What strikes me most forcefully about Cascais is how it has retained its essential character and traditional authenticity while embracing change. Hotels, restaurants, and cafés close, yet something innovative inevitably appears in their place, the town perpetually renewing itself without losing its soul.

Escothila Bar

The view from Escothila Bar

Friends who've settled in the Algarve often question my loyalty to Cascais, but the answer is clear: this place provides a peaceful respite and a sense of quiet connection that comes from avoiding package-holiday crowds. There's substance here, depth beneath the surface pleasures.

As departure looms, I observe my final ritual. The weather invariably holds gloriously fine, and I wade into the Atlantic, letting waves lap against my legs – one last gesture of defiance before summer yields to autumn. That memory sustains me through the shortening days until I can return once more, restored and reinvigorated, ready to discover what new treasures this endlessly fascinating corner of Portugal has unveiled since my last visit. The Atlantic waves will still be keeping time, and Cascais will still be there, unchanged yet somehow different, exactly as it should be.

Getting to Cascais:
Flights to Lisbon: then the resort can easily be reached by a scenic 40-minute train from Lisbon's Cais do Sodré station or via bus, car, or taxi from Lisbon or the airport.